Tuesday 21 July 2015

Le Camping en France - an arts and culture adventure



A wet Wednesday start at Newhaven ; here we were in a  warm spacious woodland camping spot in northern France some 10 hours later . 
The delights of Castels camping never fail to deliver. This holiday we decided on a first stay at Le Chateau de Chanteloup , near Le Mans.
As well as woodland walks, pool , plenty of enthusiastic children to pet our magnetically friendly dog , we were treated to easygoing hospitality . An ideal start to our first holiday in some time and three lovely relaxing days here.

I took the chance to immediately get into my Vita  Sackville West biography . Who else has bought this and the first anthology of George the Poet as their holiday reads? And I recommend both with their hugely contrasting worlds and views and concerns.
I couldn't help but think of VSW when we saw this sculpture in Le Mans. 

Le Mans is a surprising city for those who have heard only of a road race for petrol heads. It has a majestic medieval quarter and a glorious cathedral where we happened upon much more than flying buttresses.
Whilst enjoying the frescoes and windows and vaulted ceilings ,
we were treated to a well attended organ recital. 

And afterwards a tiring  210 ten steps up and down to the riverside the old city wall with its lovely planting was rewarding . And then a lovely local meal - melon soup to start and strawberry soup to end ( some tasty cod in between for me).  These soups, surprising and delicious are definitely to be tried at home. 

Next stop on our meanderings in France would be the Limoges region, accessed by country roads after a short lived and unpleasant experience of the phenomenally busy A10 . Who needs lorries and holidaymakers speedily hurtling south in search of sun and sea and Spain ? No , we preferred the back routes with acres of sunflowers, apple orchards, the odd buzzard , roe deer and red squirrel. 

Chateau Lechoisier is everything a classic chateau should be . It is set amoungst hundreds of acres of wood and lakeland . Again the camping is comfortable though pitches less spaced out and it has the feel of place of transit . ( It is ideally placed for north/south travel, and is much beloved of Netherlanders heading for Spain). But we will dally awhile and enjoy the pool, unpeopled woodland walks, deer and topiary in the well kept gardens. 
On Monday we visited Limoges and  delighted in the gardens  below the Cathedral and beside the lovely Musee de Beaux Arts . The theme of red in the dahlia exhibition in the gardens suited me as friends will know! 
Within the Musee are fantastic Limoges enamels from over the centuries and  some lovely paintings . 

We especially enjoyed the women artists and the six paintings of Suzanne Valladon(1865-1938)- I must look into the connections with Matisse. 

The floors in this beautifully restored gallery were quite stunning - old oak in simple geometric designs. Our modern "real wood" floors don't even come close!

And after a city visit , today , day 6, is one of rest and relaxation by the pool in the chateau grounds on this gloriously sunny day . 
Perhaps tomorrow will see the return of wanderlust and an appetite for getting on the road again in the direction of the Atlantic, a cooling breeze and seafood. Then again .........

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