Thursday 30 July 2015

Le Camping en France 2 - art in nature and exploring


Well the call of the sea and a breeze won out and we set off north and west on Wednesday morning (day 7 of our French camper van adventure) with the Vendee in our sights. My dear and better half (Chief as she likes to see herself ) had warm remembrances of lovely beaches and port side fish restaurants. 

Last look at Chateau  Chanteloup 


The day was dull and the sunflowers pined for the sun . Acres of sunflowers , sweet corn , apple orchards , and a big dull sky were the backcloth to our drive . Bette Midler and then the wonderful Eliza Carthy and Norma Waterson (Gift)  provided the soundtrack to our drive.

Acres of Sunflowers 

After a long drive ( where my role is to navigate and cuddle Merry as she looks longingly at the wild life and countryside  and Chief drives confidently ) we began to see signs for villages 'sur mer'. 

Merry the vanner 


We became hopeful. And the sun began to shine. However dear reader , these delightful seaside haunts illuded us.Saint Gilles Crioux de  Vie et Saint Jean de Ments were not as remembered . Instead we navigated endless roundabouts, saw countless packed , campsites fully geared to the family market ( no complaint but that's not first choice for us any longer ). The phrase "sur mer" ceased to have meaning , since villages sporting this promise demonstrated no evidence of being by the sea! Indeed the map showed significant green au bord de la mer , and we saw no blue! Routes that looked hopeful were too narrow for "camping-cars" and our enthusiasm for a stay in the Vendee waned. 

By gone 6 pm , after a supermarche stop to get provisions , hungry, thirsty and in need of exercise , we agreed to find the first possible camp site and go to it whatever it's nature . In Beavoir " sur mer" ( it isn't ) we found one of the many municipal camping car overnight car parks that France is generous enough to provide. Without sea, a view , or a chateau , it at least offered respite from driving . And we feasted on home cooked tuna and sole and vegetables. Our pleasant village walk was soon complete and there was no route nor proximity to the promised sea! But we rested. 

Our van at Beauvoir Sur Mer 



Next morning, up with the sun and with a renewed enthusiasm for our sea finding adventure , we headed for Brittany and the Gulf de Morbihan . We would plump for another Castels campsite not far from Sarzeau which promised to be 700metres from the Atlantic Ocean . It turned out to be in an appropriately named village - Penvins! We were  pitched amidst groups of youngsters on organised expeditions , close to the pool.  All three groups were impressively well behaved and fully occupied.
Certainly, it was busy and friendly. As promised, escape to the shore was easy and the rewards great. At lunch time, we were swimming in the sea and finding empty coves and beaches . The sun shone  and the glories of this gulf were shown to great effect. Interestingly almost all other campers were French . The Hollanders , few Germans and Irish we had met in northern/central France were not here. This is the hidden holiday spot for the French themselves and we could understand why. 

Sailing boats and empty shore with Merry 



We watched a Little egret and collected perfect tiny shells . Merry played and we all relaxed.

Perfectly tiny shells


A delicious local restaurant supper followed by a footpath walk to the sea in the gloaming, topped off a great part of Brittany new to us . We planned our Friday with glee. 

Merry on the seashore 


Next day , was different weather wise - cool, grey, showery . Not put off , we headed in the opposite direction to yesterday and discovered a rugged empty coastal path. Sea and freshwater wild life was abundant and we saw almost no-one....rather a lot of empty gites though. 

Seaside walk 



At Le Tour du Parc we came across a seafood shop and restaurant and were happy to sample fish of the day (me) and crab (Chief) washed down with a glass or two of Muscadet. The crab required physical strength and a lack of squeamishness that I do not possess, and I was pleased to have had cod! 


More walking , more playing on a deserted beach , more weather! 

Merry on white beach 




And back for rest, relaxation and a swim. 

Campsite at Penvins 




Saturday saw a return to sea swimming weather . So walking , swimming, reading and relaxing were the order of the day . 

Pics of sky and sea.


Our evening would see a return to the restaurant ....... And another delicious meal 

Me & pudding 


And Merry and I returned to the beach for a late night walk and a fine end to the day and end to our stay at the Gulf de Morbihan . Next stop would be Normandy , on the way home via Dieppe. 

Merry on the beach at nightfall 


We have stayed at the Castels chateau site at Martagny before. Near to Bayeux and the Normandy coastline, it is a treelined , wooded site with a lovely pool. The weather forecast was for rain everywhere on Sunday so driving a fair way made a lot of sense. Chief drove expertly through (at times) driving rain. Emmyllou Harris 's  "Wrecking Ball" and Madeleine Peryoux's "Keep me in your heart for a while" accompanied us.  Happily the rain stopped before we arrived . At 4pm Merry was surveying the site satisfactorily ! 

Merry and Chateau at Martragny . 

The well remembered planting of two years ago was still a delight - this area is obviously perfect for Hydrangea - deep rich reds and pinks.  

Hydrangea 

The fishing pond was home now to  a mother duck and her five chicks, and two drakes. Despite Merry's  interest they did not want to play !  

Merry and pond 


And after a rainy night , a good breakfast and a walk and play in the grounds, Bayeux beckoned. 

Our first priority was to locate a "veterinaire" to administer the required tablet and examination which will allow Merry back into the UK. We forgot to do this 2years ago and had to spend an extra night in Dieppe  and to buy new ferry tickets! We won't do that again. 

A walk around Bayeux and a revisit of the Cathedral was a joy . This year the Normandy commemorations are evident everywhere, and Bayeux was spruced up for her visitors. 

Bayeux 
 


We located the vet , booked an early tomorrow appointment and headed off to the Normandy beaches listening again to Madeleine Peryoux's recent and wonderful retrospective album ("Keep me in your heart fir a while").

Port-en -Bessin-Huppain provided "camping-car" parking and we explored the port with its good view of the coast and a story of valour in the 1944 Normandy history . Port -en-Bessin had been liberated from occupation to become the supply centre for the allies during the landings. Views from the harbour walls were especially interesting. 

We never found out the story behind the thousands of scallop shells on the beach . And although it was a brisk and showery visit, our over - trousers were a bit over the top ! 

We bought a few gourmand delights and vegetables to assist the local economy and continued on our explorations. 

Port-en-Bessin 

We headed further up the coast tracking the many sites marked for the Normandy 70th remembrances, and were stunned by the huge, striking "statue de la paix" - World Peace stature by Yao Ylan , at Grandcamp-Maisy . Richard Thompson 's "Still " played as we reflected on the enormity of the Normandy war stories -  individual acts of bravery and international cooperation. 

World Peace statue  


Our Merry was more taken with the beach at Grancamp-Maisy ! 


Back at base camp at Martragny , Chief cooked up a delicious roasted  vegetables meal whilst I laboured at exercising Merry and struggling to get enough wifi to look at emails and download the Guardian . ( I failed. ) The meal was quite delicious . 

Healthy home- cooked supper 


An early Tuesday start got us to the vet's in good time . Merry ingratiated herself with the lovely woman  vet whose English was excellent ; Merry and Vet shared amiable temperaments.  The examination went well and the tablets were downed without drama. 

And so off we set with Dieppe in our sights but a last beach to sample and breakfast to find. Courseulles sur Mer provided a boulangerie and a cafe and a swing bridge in action . It's fresh fish market was tempting , but we would be eating out for our last night. 

A boat sails through the open swing bridge at Courseulles

Next stop would be Dieppe- once we had crossed the stunning Pont de Normandy and paid the innumerable tolls that these roads require . I have no complaints about paying . In fact it would be a good idea for the UK .  It's just not very easy to manage the toll-booths with a dog on your lap! 
The incomparable Thea Gilmore ( Ghosts & Graffiti ) and  Eliza Carthy ( Wayward Daughter)  provided the soundtrack. 

Picture of the Pont de Normandy  ( inadequate I know) 


At Dieppe, Chief drove us straight to the overnight camping - car park on the seafront . What a brilliant facility for 7 euros ! Within no time we were reunited with pebbles -just like the beach at home ! Merry and I were happy ; Chief far prefers sand ! 

 Merry on Dieppe beach 



A wander round Dieppe, her old church,  and bustling shops , was next up. In fact some shops and cafes have struggled in the recession, but many were doing a fair trade . I was delighted to happen on a jeweller who could replace my ancient and worn out Mondaine watch strap with a new red one , making it "comme neuf" . And I invested in a new red jersey and blue and cream stripey top- how many French stripey tops can one woman have? Never too many. 

Dieppe 


A cafe provided enough wifi to download my Guardian and all was well with the world. We returned for a relax in the van where Chief would watch a film whilst I read the paper, Merry snoozed and the sun broke out for a recently rare and welcome while.

My new red jumper 


Off for supper and the search for the oft remembered "marmitte" ( a local fish stew that I've previously enjoyed) . We struggled to decide  on the particular port side restaurant to chose. Sadly we chose wrong ; too creamy and with a surly waitress who tried to overcharge us . Never mind,  we've had lots of other lovely meals and we caught the glorious sunset. And I still had the Guardian to finish off in bed! 

Sunset at Dieppe 


A sound , cheap sleep ;  a walk  on the beach ; breakfast ; and then off to the ferry port . 





A long wait , a long sail , and the white cliffs hoved into view -Angleterre- Newhaven ! 
And by late afternoon we were unpacking the van ; opening the post ; thanking neighbours for feeding Eartha (Kitt- the cat) and eating a home made curry! 
And then Merry and I had to be reunited with Hove seafront ! We were home.
My how the i360 is growing! 



Thus ended another camping road trip across the sea . A good break , with lots of culture and nature , some sun and plenty of exercise music and tasty food . 



Tuesday 21 July 2015

Le Camping en France - an arts and culture adventure



A wet Wednesday start at Newhaven ; here we were in a  warm spacious woodland camping spot in northern France some 10 hours later . 
The delights of Castels camping never fail to deliver. This holiday we decided on a first stay at Le Chateau de Chanteloup , near Le Mans.
As well as woodland walks, pool , plenty of enthusiastic children to pet our magnetically friendly dog , we were treated to easygoing hospitality . An ideal start to our first holiday in some time and three lovely relaxing days here.

I took the chance to immediately get into my Vita  Sackville West biography . Who else has bought this and the first anthology of George the Poet as their holiday reads? And I recommend both with their hugely contrasting worlds and views and concerns.
I couldn't help but think of VSW when we saw this sculpture in Le Mans. 

Le Mans is a surprising city for those who have heard only of a road race for petrol heads. It has a majestic medieval quarter and a glorious cathedral where we happened upon much more than flying buttresses.
Whilst enjoying the frescoes and windows and vaulted ceilings ,
we were treated to a well attended organ recital. 

And afterwards a tiring  210 ten steps up and down to the riverside the old city wall with its lovely planting was rewarding . And then a lovely local meal - melon soup to start and strawberry soup to end ( some tasty cod in between for me).  These soups, surprising and delicious are definitely to be tried at home. 

Next stop on our meanderings in France would be the Limoges region, accessed by country roads after a short lived and unpleasant experience of the phenomenally busy A10 . Who needs lorries and holidaymakers speedily hurtling south in search of sun and sea and Spain ? No , we preferred the back routes with acres of sunflowers, apple orchards, the odd buzzard , roe deer and red squirrel. 

Chateau Lechoisier is everything a classic chateau should be . It is set amoungst hundreds of acres of wood and lakeland . Again the camping is comfortable though pitches less spaced out and it has the feel of place of transit . ( It is ideally placed for north/south travel, and is much beloved of Netherlanders heading for Spain). But we will dally awhile and enjoy the pool, unpeopled woodland walks, deer and topiary in the well kept gardens. 
On Monday we visited Limoges and  delighted in the gardens  below the Cathedral and beside the lovely Musee de Beaux Arts . The theme of red in the dahlia exhibition in the gardens suited me as friends will know! 
Within the Musee are fantastic Limoges enamels from over the centuries and  some lovely paintings . 

We especially enjoyed the women artists and the six paintings of Suzanne Valladon(1865-1938)- I must look into the connections with Matisse. 

The floors in this beautifully restored gallery were quite stunning - old oak in simple geometric designs. Our modern "real wood" floors don't even come close!

And after a city visit , today , day 6, is one of rest and relaxation by the pool in the chateau grounds on this gloriously sunny day . 
Perhaps tomorrow will see the return of wanderlust and an appetite for getting on the road again in the direction of the Atlantic, a cooling breeze and seafood. Then again .........

Monday 13 July 2015

The art of friendship

A weekend of culture and friendship began with the Royal Academy and the Summer exhibition. Thousands of artists ( professional and amateur) submit their work every year . The eclectic mix is stimulating, heartwarming, and plain perplexing in some cases. 

       Jim Lambie's stunning,kaleidoscopic staircase

     
         Barbara Rae RA - Inlet 


I love the work of Barbara Rae RA and truly admired the hanging of the exhibition; the pink was inspired and we met a fellow visitor in pink to match. 

Not everything hit the spot for me of course, but there were some vital works including a portrait tapestry by Grayson Perry and this marvellous vibrant Vanessa Jackson painting which won the Sunny Dupree award for a Woman Artist .

    Vanessa Jackson  Homage a Henri 

Walking from the Royal Academy to Trafalgar Square, we stopped by the Christopher Wren Church, St James's , Piccadilly.  The time defying architecture , tree and sky provide another London gem .


After a dalliance for a tasty supper at 2Brydges with good friends, we were treated to the ballet at the Coliseum.  Here we enjoyed a  wonderful reworking of "Cinderella" - with a superb flutey Prokofiev score and choreographed by Christopher Wheeldon.  The sky in Trafalgar Square was stunning . There is art in nature all around us. London is a stunning city.


And then to Muswell Hill , joining hundreds on the Piccadilly Line , all well behaved and hot.  And onto the W7 bus and to the welcoming home of more friends , who didn't resent a first night being treated like a hotel! 

On Saturday morning, the delights of urban walking and Alexandra Palace provided stunning London views, air, and exercise before the more sedentary though exhilarating Women's and Men's Doubles Finals watching . 

Then followed paella in the garden , Chablis and animated conversation on topics as diverse as family, garden irrigation, local democracy, ageing, care and health, pottery, travelling in France , future opportunities ........the sustaining value of family, friendship and a love of art .


    Above , views from  Alexandra Palace ; below, views of Alexandra Palace